As Royal Ascot kicks off, this is the evolution of racing fashion

2024-06-18
As Royal Ascot kicks off, this is the evolution of racing fashion

Ascot Racecourse: A Sartorial Odyssey Through the Decades

Ascot Racecourse has long been a bastion of British tradition, where the equine elite gather to showcase their prowess on the track. But for many, the true spectacle lies in the fashion that graces the grandstands. From the roaring Twenties to the present day, the evolution of race-day style has mirrored the changing tides of society, reflecting the cultural and social shifts that have shaped the nation.

Unveiling the Sartorial Tapestry of Ascot's Past and Present

The Roaring Twenties: Flapper Flair and Regal Nonchalance

The Roaring Twenties ushered in a new era of liberation and self-expression, and this spirit was evident in the fashion that graced the Ascot Racecourse. Fanciful flapper dresses, with their shorter hemlines and looser silhouettes, signaled a departure from the grandiosity of the Victorian era. The attendance of royals like Lord Cecil Manners and his wife further cemented the nonchalance that had become the hallmark of Ascot style.This era saw the emergence of a more comfortable and practical approach to race-day attire, a stark contrast to the opulence of the past. The liberality of the 1920s was reflected in the daring fashion choices of the attendees, setting the stage for a new decade of sartorial exploration.

The Fabulous Fifties: Ruffles, Riches, and the Rise of the 'New Look'

Following the utilitarian structures of the 1940s, the post-war era ushered in a resurgence of feminine fabrics and silhouettes at the Ascot Racecourse. The introduction of Christian Dior's 'New Look' saw the emergence of fuller skirts and cinched waists, allowing guests to elevate their race-day style with exaggerated shapes, hemlines, and hats.This period also saw the rise of floral and botanical motifs, which became signature styles for the summer season. The late Queen's outfit to the 1955 event exemplified this trend, showcasing the elegance and refinement that had become synonymous with Ascot fashion.

The Bohemian Seventies: Embracing Individuality and Personal Style

The 1970s ushered in a bold and eclectic era of race-day fashion, marked by a distinct bohemian aesthetic. Bold prints, relaxed cuts, and a more laidback approach to dressing became the hallmark of this decade. While florals remained a staple, guests began to experiment with wider silhouettes, including wide-leg trousers, jumpsuits, and floppy hats.The emergence of figures like Gertrude Shilling, dubbed the 'Mascot of Ascot', further cemented the era's celebration of individuality and personal style. Her audacious and attention-grabbing hat designs were a far cry from the more traditional looks of the past, signaling a shift towards a more expressive and unconventional approach to race-day fashion.

The Nineties: The Rise of 'Quiet Luxury' and the Influence of Princess Diana

Following the exaggerated silhouettes of the Eighties, the 1990s saw a return to a more refined and understated approach to race-day fashion. Characterized by what we now call 'quiet luxury', this era combined simplistic and sophisticated tailoring with avant-garde accents.The influence of Diana, Princess of Wales, was particularly evident during this time, as her bold yet understated style set the tone for Ascot attendees. Traditional dress codes began to be more strictly adhered to, but guests found ways to incorporate their own personal style into modest ensembles, blending contemporary and traditional elements.

The Modern Era: Embracing Fluidity and Individuality

The 2010s and beyond have seen a continued evolution of race-day fashion at the Ascot Racecourse. The acceptance of jumpsuits and the groundbreaking moment when fashion designer Daisy Knatchbull became the first woman to wear a top hat and tails in the Royal Enclosure in 2017 have signaled a more fluid and androgynous approach to dressing.Today, Royal appearances continue to serve as leading sources of inspiration for race-day fashion. The Princess of Wales, a regular face at Ascot, has set trends for vintage prints and silhouettes balanced by monochromatic palettes. While the majority of attendees still adhere to the racecourse's traditionally elegant and conservative attire, guests are increasingly embracing a more diverse range of styles, from skirt suits to asymmetric cuts and structured tailoring.As the 2020s unfold, it seems that the Ascot Racecourse is poised to witness a continued celebration of classic tailoring and individual expression. The upcoming years promise to be a veritable smorgasbord of unique and innovative fashion choices, as attendees push the boundaries of what is considered acceptable race-day attire.

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