Loewe's Unconventional Catwalk Showcases Artistic Flair and Commercial Savvy

The Loewe fashion show in Paris on Saturday was a captivating blend of high art and commercial appeal, as the brand's creative director, Jonathan Anderson, seamlessly wove together esoteric references and mainstream appeal. From the security-guarded artefacts on the catwalk to the brand's growing popularity among celebrities and consumers, this event showcased Loewe's unique ability to balance the obscure and the accessible.

Loewe Redefines Luxury with Artistic Collaborations and Unconventional Runway

Artefacts on the Catwalk Demand Attention

The Loewe show in Paris was a departure from the typical celebrity-filled front rows, as the focus was instead on the intriguing artefacts placed on the catwalk. Scattered on the floor were tiny mice from Paul Thek's 1975 Personal Effects of the Pied Piper Series, a 1966 copy of Susan Sontag's Against Interpretation, and a 1898 high-backed wooden Argyle chair by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. These eclectic items, guarded by security, set the stage for a show that promised to challenge traditional notions of fashion.

Transforming a Military Barracks into a Sterile Gallery

The show was held at the Garde Républicaine's Célestins barracks in the 4th arrondissement of Paris, a vast indoor arena usually used for exercising horses. However, for this event, the space had been meticulously transformed into a sterile gallery-like setting, creating an atmosphere of contemplation and artistic exploration.

Invitation Sets the Tone with a Peter Hujar Photograph

Before the show, each guest received an invitation featuring a black and white print of a high-heeled shoe taken by the late American photographer Peter Hujar. Hujar, known for capturing the downtown New York scene in the 70s and 80s, served as the inspiration for the collection, with Anderson describing the image as his starting point.

Loewe's Creative Director Blends the Obscure and the Commercial

Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of Loewe and the founder of his own brand, JW Anderson, has a unique ability to take esoteric references and translate them into wider, more accessible ideas. This amalgamation of the obscure and the commercial has been a driving force behind Loewe's recent success, transforming the once-stuffy Spanish house into a fashion powerhouse.

Loewe's Meteoric Rise and Commercial Dominance

According to the fashion app Lyst, Loewe currently sits at number three on its index, just behind Miu Miu and Prada, a testament to the brand's growing popularity among consumers. The brand has also attracted high-profile celebrity endorsements, with British actors Maggie Smith and Lesley Manville starring in campaigns, and Beyoncé choosing one of its sparkly bodysuits for her Renaissance tour. Loewe's puzzle bags and £325 anagram vest top have become highly sought-after items, particularly among Gen Z-ers.

Loewe's Remarkable Financial Performance and LVMH's Praise

The brand's commercial success is reflected in its financial performance, with Loewe reporting a profit of €127.6m in 2022, an 87% increase from the previous fiscal year. In January, Loewe's parent company, LVMH, announced a record revenue, praising Anderson's "bold, creative leadership" and Loewe's "remarkable performance."

Fans Embrace Loewe's Unique Aesthetic

Loewe's distinctive aesthetic has resonated with fans, who are able to identify obscure items that encapsulate the brand's unique style. One such example is a social media post featuring an heirloom tomato, with users agreeing that the red and ribbed calabash was "so Loewe." Anderson himself acknowledged the post, later sharing an image of a clutch shaped like the heirloom fruit, claiming the brand had already made it for the next season.

Loewe's Runway Show Attracts A-List Celebrities

The Loewe show in Paris was attended by a star-studded front row, including actor Jeff Goldblum, pop star Sabrina Carpenter, and Loewe's latest brand ambassador, the Chinese actor and singer Wang Yibo. Goldblum, who was seen enjoying the placement of Thek's mice near his feet, praised the brand's "fun and uniquely witty and sensual" aesthetic, reflecting on Anderson's "epic scope and vision."

Loewe's Influence Extends Beyond Fashion

While notable figures like filmmaker Luca Guadagnino and actor Zendaya were absent from the show (Anderson designed the costumes for Challengers), the presence of fans outside the venue wearing Loewe's "I Told Ya" T-shirts showcased the brand's growing influence that transcends the fashion industry.

Loewe's Runway Showcases Optical Illusions and Unconventional Designs

The Loewe runway show opened with several inky-black morning suits, each model wearing a headband featuring a single or trio of long bird feathers, turned upside down to slightly obscure the wearer's face. Some of the headpieces were covered in gold lamé, creating a "hypnotising" effect, as described by Anderson.The collection also featured optical illusions, with sweaters painted to look like cable knits and the hem of a trenchcoat wired upwards, giving the impression of the wearer caught in a gust of wind. The swishy wide-legged and pleated mohair trousers almost appeared squidgy, further challenging traditional notions of garment construction.Anderson emphasized his desire for pieces to act differently on the wearer than how they appeared on a clothes rack, stating, "Things are not what they seem." He also spoke about the idea of "restraint," with Derby shoes elongated to have knife-sharp pointed toes, each centimetre carefully considered and reconsidered to maintain a "fine balance" between the avant-garde and the wearable.