Innovative Fabrics and Cutting-Edge Designs: The Future of Menswear at Milan Fashion Week

The recent Milan Fashion Week showcased a strong emphasis on utility and workwear, signaling a continued trend in menswear. Outerwear specialists have upped the ante, introducing never-before-seen textiles and coatings that blend performance and style. From Stone Island's fabric engineering marvels to C.P. Company's material research, the industry is pushing the boundaries of what's possible in men's fashion.

Redefining the Boundaries of Menswear

Fabric Innovation at Stone Island

Stone Island's showroom is a testament to the brand's commitment to fabric engineering. The development and exploration of textiles at the Italian label are truly remarkable. One standout example is the "Raso Gommato," a three-layer fabric where light cotton satin is bonded to a performance membrane and protected by a super-light polyester white mesh. Another innovative creation is a new fabric that combines a super-thin layer of sheepskin leather with a very light polyester organza, resulting in a crunchy finish and increased resistance.These cutting-edge textiles are then expertly crafted into garments that blend functionality and style. The brand's parka, inspired by vintage military pieces and motorcycling jackets, features internal seam-taping and covered zips, showcasing the attention to detail and technical prowess that has become synonymous with Stone Island.

Pushing the Boundaries at C.P. Company

C.P. Company, the brainchild of Massio Osti, continues to define its fashion codes through fabric innovation and material research. The brand's spring 2025 collection features several outerwear designs that are the result of new textiles being incorporated into the label's signature silhouettes, such as the Millemiglia and Goggle jackets.One standout piece is an anorak with a Pium see-through hoodie, crafted from a nylon yarn that has been flattened, laminated with a special coating, and then over-dyed to achieve a patina effect. Additionally, the Lino Wax linen fabric, coated with a semi-transparent polyurethane compound, transforms the Millemiglia field jacket into a protective garment.

Expanding Beyond Outerwear at Ten C

Ten C's spring 2025 collection marks the debut of new textiles, including resin-coated linen that is plied into cargo pants and a pocketed utility jacket inspired by a U.S. military overall. Creative director Alessandro Pungetti explains that the brand is expanding its offering beyond its core outerwear category, "building a total look stemming from a new way to see at clothing."The collection also features waxed designs, including anoraks and fly jackets, that showcase a distressed and vintage patina, further enhancing the overall utilitarian mood. Additionally, the brand has incorporated a garment-dyed nylon gabardine with a metallic effect, tapping into a small but ubiquitous trend among outerwear specialists.

Diversifying Product Offerings at Add

With a different approach, Add is taking its fabric sourcing to newer territories. The brand's spring 2025 men's collection features mixed media, including cupro and cotton, in bomber jackets and the so-called "foil windbreaker," crafted from a metal yarn fabric that guarantees extra protection.In the high-performance space, Add has introduced a three-layer rain jacket and a lightly padded overshirt stuffed with Primaloft, further expanding the brand's gorpcore offerings. Additionally, the label is diversifying its product categories, venturing into knits and pants.

Moorer's Luxurious Outerwear

Moorer showcased a collection that highlighted the brand's expertise in crafting high-quality outerwear. The standout pieces include short jackets with hoods made of super-light fabric padded with goose down, as well as small boudin-quilted, semi-lined blouses made of hand-buffed vegetable napa, featuring chest pockets and horn buttons.The color palette for the collection ranges from white and ecru to beige and butter, with tones of blue, gray, sage green, leather, and orange. The materials used include silks, suede, and ultra-fine wools, showcasing Moorer's commitment to luxurious and refined craftsmanship.

Blauer's Multifaceted Approach

Blauer presented five distinct lines for its spring 2025 collection: essential, urban police, department, rider, and B. project. The last two lines were specifically designed for men, drawing inspiration from the racing world.The B.Project line features jackets made of two-layered nylon and leather, as well as sweatshirts and T-shirts in classic black and white cotton, with a standout pocket that includes an LED flash. The Essential line includes shell and bomber jackets in rubber-coated nylon and natural fiber blends, hinging on a color palette of green, plum, and yellow.The Urban Police line is dedicated to cargo pants and crewneck sweaters in waterproof and resistant stretch fabrics, enriched with graphics from the world of military protection and featuring touches of navy blue and sand. The Department line focuses on outerwear, with a color palette embracing neutral shades such as brown and army green, and utilizing high-density nylon and garment-dyed cotton to guarantee outdoor performance.